The Care and Feeding of Antique Saddlery
If you have antique, vintage or period
saddlery, you are in possession of an amazing piece of history.
These items (I am going to say saddles from now on, but this applies to
all leather goods) have such stories to tell us, and we should listen.
Storage, use and care
Leather goods should be stored in a climate
controlled environment. A damp basement, a hot car, the dressing
room of a trailer, or the average tack room are not appropriate places
to store tack. The heating up and cooling down causes expansion
and contraction of the metal in the tree causing it to loosen over
time. The leather can mold in a damp place, or dry-rot in a dry
place. Rust and condensation happen with the constant changes in
temperature and humidity.
Tack should be stored in a cool, dry place, out of the sun. The living areas of a house (like a closet) or a dehumidified and somewhat heated basement can also work. A heated (not warm, just above freezing) and dehumidified tack room might also be suitable.
Use dust covers that can breathe. Do not use plastic. Avoid putting sweaty saddle pads and girths on the seat of you your saddle. Check the billets and rigging, and stirrup leathers frequently as these wear quickly and are a safety hazard if in poor condition.
Use care to prevent your saddle from getting soaking wet in the rain. If you frequently ride far from home in your saddle, invest in a water resistant riding cover for it in case you get caught in the rain.
Do not use leather care products with petroleum distillates or neatsfoot oil. I recommend Sedgewicks leather care or Abbey's 1982 (aka Hoopers Saddle Food). These conditioners are made with tallow, beeswax and fish oil. This is what the tanneries used to "stuff" the leather when it was made.
After a regular ride, wipe the leather down with a damp cloth to remove surface dirt. If you item gets muddy or very dirty, you can rinse the item with water to remove the grit and mud, and then condition. Don't use straight glycerin soap as it leaves a film that prevents the conditioner from getting into the leather.
Making sure the saddle is safe to use, and keeping it in good condition will help you enjoy it for a lifetime.
Tack should be stored in a cool, dry place, out of the sun. The living areas of a house (like a closet) or a dehumidified and somewhat heated basement can also work. A heated (not warm, just above freezing) and dehumidified tack room might also be suitable.
Use dust covers that can breathe. Do not use plastic. Avoid putting sweaty saddle pads and girths on the seat of you your saddle. Check the billets and rigging, and stirrup leathers frequently as these wear quickly and are a safety hazard if in poor condition.
Use care to prevent your saddle from getting soaking wet in the rain. If you frequently ride far from home in your saddle, invest in a water resistant riding cover for it in case you get caught in the rain.
Do not use leather care products with petroleum distillates or neatsfoot oil. I recommend Sedgewicks leather care or Abbey's 1982 (aka Hoopers Saddle Food). These conditioners are made with tallow, beeswax and fish oil. This is what the tanneries used to "stuff" the leather when it was made.
After a regular ride, wipe the leather down with a damp cloth to remove surface dirt. If you item gets muddy or very dirty, you can rinse the item with water to remove the grit and mud, and then condition. Don't use straight glycerin soap as it leaves a film that prevents the conditioner from getting into the leather.
Making sure the saddle is safe to use, and keeping it in good condition will help you enjoy it for a lifetime.
Partners
